THE INTERVIEW: GAR CHEUNG OF ABANDON WORKSHOP
Katherine Stevens
Jul 06, 2012
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Chatty accessories designer Gar Cheung is the woman behind the latest brand to join the roster at AnyShopStyle.cn, Abandon Workshop. Hailing from Manchester, but based in Shanghai, she tells us that creating a socially responsible label is at the very essence of her brand, and that she'd really love fellow Northerner Agyness Deyn to wear her designs.
How did the first designs for your custom-made jewellery develop into the Abandon Workshop brand?
My first designs actually began as a bit of fun, and from materials I had gathered over time. Like most designers I’m a big hoarder, and I was always the first one to be found rummaging through sample fabrics and trims that were thrown out as they were no longer in season or of use. It still amazes me at how much waste can be accumulated in the fashion industry because of this.
Besides this, I also have a habit of creating random creations from nothing. I love how simply twisting a piece of cloth and manipulating it in different ways can produce such different outcomes. This is how I started to grow my creations into a collection, hence how Abandon Workshop was born. I realized that people are much more socially responsible these days, so creating Abandon Workshop was a chance to offer people the opportunity to have unique creations, yet still shop with a conscience!
For how long has Abandon Workshop been a part of the Shanghai fashion scene?
Abandon Workshop is still relatively new on the Shanghai scene. I started the brand back in 2008, but we have stayed relatively low key as we have mainly been working on our brand identity and collection. Most of our showcasing and publicity has been mainly through private events. I would say within the last 6 months Abandon Workshop has started to emerge into the local scene, as there is a current trend for local creative pop up shops and fairs that we have been regularly participating in.
Have you had any exceptional finds while on the hunt for new materials?
Yes, my workshop is like an Aladdin’s cave! We are constantly on the look out for new materials to work with to keep our pieces interesting and unique. As I have been working in the fashion industry for several years now, one of my favourite sources is always abandoned fabrics from fashion houses, as they can be so diverse. Some of my favourite finds have been rescued sample pieces of lux metallic yarn, which I used, in my first collection to create a lux bib and necktie, and metallic leathers that are great to work with.
Which other creatives, both Chinese and international do you admire?
There are so many! Chen Man, for her breathtaking photography skills and impact she has had on the fashion world at still such a young age. A fantastic achievement and talent to have come out of China, and I admire how she is able to stay true to her heritage yet easily fuse both Western and Eastern cultures together in her work.
For fashion designers, Comme des Garçons for its unconventional designs, and I am a huge admirer of Marni for its bold and fun statement pieces that are quirky and unique; that’s an important element that I also try to adapt into my designs. I admire how they have created a very strong identity for not only their clothing but also their accessories.
Where do you take your inspiration from when embarking on a new creation?
Travel, especially in South East Asia. A lot of my designs are based around handwork, and manipulating fabric, so it is very important for me to keep learning new methods to apply to my designs. With so many different cultures within Asia, I find it very inspiring to research into their techniques and traditions, which have generally been passed down from one generation to the next, and then try to adapt this in a modern approach.
The rest of my inspiration I would say mainly comes from the fabric itself. Each fabric has its own unique feel and style, so generally I can sit for a few hours just playing with the fabric to understand it before it naturally takes on a life of its own, which then translates into my creation.
What are your three favourite places in Shanghai?
Moganshan art district (M50.) - a big mix of local and international artists and galleries, it’s a great creative hub to visit if you are in town. Also if you are a lover of street art like me, then the graffiti artwork along the walls is a definite must-see.
1933 building - This building used to be an old abattoir, and is a landmark building in Shanghai. It’s a really interesting space to visit with a fascinating history and amazing architecture.
Our studio is located on Yongkang Lu, a really quaint area in the former French concession area. I love how the street has a very European feel with the cafes and bars all around, yet turn a corner and you can immediately be standing next to the wet market. It’s a perfect blend of old and new.
How do your customers respond when encouraged to get involved in the design of their piece?
I find that a lot of them are more creative than they realise. Generally they begin with simple aspects such as colour suggestions and added trims, but after a little coaxing I find that they start to become more open and quite sure of what it is they like and don’t like. It’s then an interesting challenge to try to incorporate this, whilst still keeping the Abandon essence in the product.
Who would you love to see in your designs?
Agyness Deyn. Gorgeous, quirky, stylish, and oozes fun. A true Brit at heart, and she has the ability to wear anything she wants, yet still keeping her own sense of style. Also she is from Lancashire, where I also grew up, so that’s also a plus!
Looking ahead, will your upcoming autumn/winter collection see you expand into other accessories?
Most definitely. I currently design for another brand Peony Rice which I am involved closely with, and recently we collaborated on a project together which involved a range of head pieces. So I also hope to develop our own fun range involving lots of fabric twisting and playing.
I also have had lots of requests from male friends asking me when I will be developing a men’s line, so this is an area I really want to branch into at some point. I might have to save that one for 2013 though!
Abandon Workshop's capsule necklace collection is now available at AnyShopStyle.cn. Click here to see the full collection.
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